New York Fashion Week profile,
IF there was a single message to take away from New York Fashion Week, it was this: Take it easy, fashionistas
Languid, fluid styles were dominant in the eight days of spring previews that wrapped up yesterday. Silhouettes were long and loose, sometimes billowy, in chiffon, tulle and silk.
It was a far cry from the warrior look that has dominated the runways in recent seasons, and it reflected a new optimism that also came through in the use of white and sheer fabrics.
"I think the collections have been very optimistic. The best of them have been very colorful and pretty and romantic," said Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour.
The final day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week featured the return of Gwen Stefani and her LAMB collection to the runway and shows by heavyweights Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta. Now fashion insiders take off to London, Milan and Paris.
CALVIN KLEIN
Easy, fluid and chic have been three of the favorite words at New York Fashion Week — and that was before the Calvin Klein collection debuted. Now, you can add sexy, smart and glamorous.
Minimal has long been the mantra of Calvin Klein, but Franciso Costa made the most for spring of each fold of fabric. He showed a masterful understanding of how clothes look on the body, and how to use that to the wearer's advantage. A delicate little tie hugged the models wearing pleated dresses, and the silk crepe V-neck dress was evocative of a slinky-yet-sophisticated robe.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Oscar de la Renta gave the audience what it wanted out of his new spring collection: clothes for the big bashes.
The "oohs" and "aahs" reverberated through de la Renta's preferred Park Avenue venue for favorites including a dress with a black silk faille bodice and ivory swansdown skirt (yes — feathers!) and a black lace gown with embroidered beads that was paired with a black-tulle powder puff of a bolero — both boasting de la Renta's signature glamour and luxury. There's no need for de la Renta to reinvent the wheel, after all.
Several styles had 1950s influences, which the designer reinforced by playing The Platters' "Only You," bringing the crowd to the chicest high-school prom one could imagine.
But then the collection jumped to the Miami scene of the 1970s — this season's favorite retro moment — with an ivory-and-green leaf embroidered gown and the more flamenco-inspired faille and point-d-esprit ruffle gown.
RALPH LAUREN
Ralph Lauren's romance with the American West continues. The twists on this runway were the silver sparkle, the ultra-luxe deerskin and sheer fabrics turning up in unexpected places.
Lauren employed traditional touches, such as leather fringe and oversized belt buckles, but there was a freshness and femininity to the clothes, especially the lace pieces.
A beautiful tulle embroidered blouse with a high neck, worn with an off-white leather fringed jacket and off-white linen shorts with crochet stripes down the side, kicked off the show and set the mood. Lauren's days at the ranch are far more glamorous than your typical cowboy — there might be a need for a deerskin, beaded vest or fringed pants.
For evening, there was a honey-colored beaded, fringed long skirt with an embroidered blouse with hand crochet details, and a blush-pink georgette gown with gentle ruffles and unfinished edges around the V-neck.
LAMB
Gwen Stefani put on an encore for the fashion world Thursday night, the last big event of New York Fashion Week.
Stefani sent out mostly African-tribal looks, including some flirty dresses with mixed prints, a short shift with full mosiac-pattern beading and a white tuxedo with hand beading down the sides of the legs of the skinny trousers. There were some softer, pretty looks — a silk chiffon dress with ruffled shoulders, among them — and she even sneaked in a tailored menswear-style pantsuit.
This marked the return of LAMB to the main runways of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week after staging much smaller presentations in recent seasons. In an interview Wednesday, Stefani said she was excited — but more nervous than before a musical performance.
"With fashion, I'm now asking if I can play in your house, even though I didn't grow up in your neighborhood," she said.
(source:news.com.au)
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